The early proponents of streetwear were mostly men, and it wasn’t a style that particularly lent itself to traditional ideas of femininity. The style was borne out of the rap scene in New York City and the skate scene that had evolved from the west-coast surf aesthetic, and the two combined to create something new and globally appealing.
The mainstream culture of the 1980s had given women more of an opportunity to express themselves through clothing than ever before. Women’s fashion had been fairly staid for decades before scandalously short miniskirts shook up the scene, and women were ready for something more appealing like a stacked tracksuit.
But it took the combination of two completely male-dominated pastimes, hip hop and skating, to give women a chance to express themselves in a new way. Before streetwear had a name, rappers and skaters were joining forces to create a hybrid counterculture that was already breaking down barriers between clans.
When did women get into streetwear?
The practicality of streetwear didn’t just appeal to skaters and MCs. Women, who had endured years of being told to wear uncomfortable clothes simply because they were ‘ladylike’, were ready for clothing that allowed them the freedom to move and express themselves.
Some of the most influential musicians of the 90s, such as Aaliyah, Neneh Cherry and the members of Luscious Jackson, made headlines by wearing outfits that would barely raise an eyebrow today. Appearing in oversized basketball jerseys, wide work-style pants, and figure-swamping jackets, they kicked back at everything the public expected from women in the music industry and blazed a trail of their own.
While they may have been making the news for their bold choices, they were also taking the first steps towards a global revolution that would see massive changes to the way women’s fashion is perceived.
Why is streetwear so appealing for women?
If you ask most women what they look for in clothing, most will cite comfort and practicality. In a world where only the most progressive designers recognize the need for pockets in women’s clothing, the availability of comfy jeans with plenty of places to keep your 90s accessory of choice (pager, scrunchie, giant earrings) was a revelation.
The versatility of streetwear meant that women could finally have it all – clothing that was suitable for daily life but that could be glammed up for a night out, often with the addition of a tighter tee-shirt and a choker and still remain comfortable. While there was still plenty of room for more revealing clothing, streetwear allowed women to express themselves through super-fresh sneakers and custom-printed tees as well.
Once the need for ‘form-flattering’ clothing had been diminished, streetwear was forcibly democratized by women simply buying from the men’s lines. There was plenty of choice among oversized shirts and hoodies, and the bagginess of the pants meant that there was no need to have them specially cut for women’s bodies.
This may have played into the male-dominated culture, but it also gave women the freedom to create their own version of streetwear. Many created completely unique looks by combining gender-neutral items such as jeans and hoodies with more traditionally feminine jewelry and accessories.
An enduring appeal
While there is still a long way to go when it comes to female-led brands, designers, and manufacturers, women are continually thriving in the streetwear industry. Not only do women finally have more of a choice of items designed specifically for them, but men are also seeing the benefits of having more female designers and creatives involved in the industry.
Large sports brands have traditionally held a lot of sway in the streetwear scene, so the fact that Nike has gone from a couple of sneaker collabs to an entire Women Artist Collection in just a few years demonstrates that women have made the streetwear scene their own and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.
